The Coat - Pockets Conquered
Feb. 3rd, 2012 12:07 am![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
jessamygriffithOf tailoring, using my eye, proportions, ratio and tailor's tacks.
Getting the positions of the pocket just right took forever. Not trusting tailor's chalk (rubs off the wool too fast) I used a new thing and put in tailor's tacks to mark the positions. Worked like a dream.
Fresh technique 1 - little paper patches of buttons and pockets to get the placements and see the effect.
Fresh technique 2 - Using a spirit level to be sure the pockets were level Good thing the coat had hung all week so the fabric was as bias stretched as it was going to get.
Fresh technique 3 - I said to myself, not having done such an exact garment using only photos, "Self, we need measurements, but using proportions and ratios thereof, we can get it decently right.' Hence this full length photo was used. Cumberbatch is 6', so I divided him up and was able to use this to measure and place my pockets and buttons.
You may have noticed my techniques aren't always professional. I'm not.
Buttons - they WERE black, but the ones on the coat are gold edged. I did a post on that a while back. Ugly, Thanks Belfast. I had to paint mine. I used gold acrylic I slapped on and rubbed off. I want a clear coat to make them glossy - that can come later.
Tailor's tacks are just threads you pull out later to mark placements. Also, see my awesome welt pocket. Worked perfectly my second time round doing them. If they gap stupidly again I can A. steam the wool to shrink it (LOVE wool) ot B. use snaps or a hidden sip inside. I lean towards a zip anyway in case I actually want to use the welt pockets for things other then, say, rubbing my boobs. Really, you can tell it's a coat for men. Stupid pocket placement. OK, maybe not my boob. Fiddle with my underwire I suppose.
Patch pockets, lined. I'll be doing a blind stitch on the edges to flatten then a bit more. Still. Not bad, not bad. Need to buy some red silk thread for the button holes. More iron-on interfacing, and perhaps some large snaps - I saw in a promo pic for S2 that there's a snap instead of button holes on the underlapping lapel. Explains why I never saw buttonholes down that side. Interesting.
And next, I have to tackle the collar. A biggish step getting that right. After that, I get to do sleeves and the cuffs, those bloody cuffs.
Getting the positions of the pocket just right took forever. Not trusting tailor's chalk (rubs off the wool too fast) I used a new thing and put in tailor's tacks to mark the positions. Worked like a dream.
Fresh technique 1 - little paper patches of buttons and pockets to get the placements and see the effect.
Fresh technique 2 - Using a spirit level to be sure the pockets were level Good thing the coat had hung all week so the fabric was as bias stretched as it was going to get.
Fresh technique 3 - I said to myself, not having done such an exact garment using only photos, "Self, we need measurements, but using proportions and ratios thereof, we can get it decently right.' Hence this full length photo was used. Cumberbatch is 6', so I divided him up and was able to use this to measure and place my pockets and buttons.
You may have noticed my techniques aren't always professional. I'm not.
Buttons - they WERE black, but the ones on the coat are gold edged. I did a post on that a while back. Ugly, Thanks Belfast. I had to paint mine. I used gold acrylic I slapped on and rubbed off. I want a clear coat to make them glossy - that can come later.
Tailor's tacks are just threads you pull out later to mark placements. Also, see my awesome welt pocket. Worked perfectly my second time round doing them. If they gap stupidly again I can A. steam the wool to shrink it (LOVE wool) ot B. use snaps or a hidden sip inside. I lean towards a zip anyway in case I actually want to use the welt pockets for things other then, say, rubbing my boobs. Really, you can tell it's a coat for men. Stupid pocket placement. OK, maybe not my boob. Fiddle with my underwire I suppose.
Patch pockets, lined. I'll be doing a blind stitch on the edges to flatten then a bit more. Still. Not bad, not bad. Need to buy some red silk thread for the button holes. More iron-on interfacing, and perhaps some large snaps - I saw in a promo pic for S2 that there's a snap instead of button holes on the underlapping lapel. Explains why I never saw buttonholes down that side. Interesting.
And next, I have to tackle the collar. A biggish step getting that right. After that, I get to do sleeves and the cuffs, those bloody cuffs.
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no subject
Date: 2012-02-04 04:38 pm (UTC)My Dad was a hunter, but didn't like trapping. He said he would never kill anything he didn't intend to eat and real fur in this age where we have alternatives was cruel vanity. Which is ironic as his Mom has a closet full of mink. Having grown up with that kind of flip flop attitude It's one more thing for me to be neurotic about. O.o
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Date: 2012-02-05 01:43 am (UTC)My mother in law has a mink. I love it. Too small for me. But since I live in Japan, no one is going to:
A) Get in a shouting match
B) Throw paint
C) Talk to me about this because I am
A) Foreign
B) Too tall to hassle without
C) Provoking the angry gaijin - bad idea.
I wish I had it now really. Cold winter.
We never really talked about moral issues of fur except the idea was pretty the same in our house as yours.
no subject
Date: 2012-02-05 04:35 am (UTC)