The Coat - Pockets Conquered
Feb. 3rd, 2012 12:07 am![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
jessamygriffithOf tailoring, using my eye, proportions, ratio and tailor's tacks.
Getting the positions of the pocket just right took forever. Not trusting tailor's chalk (rubs off the wool too fast) I used a new thing and put in tailor's tacks to mark the positions. Worked like a dream.
Fresh technique 1 - little paper patches of buttons and pockets to get the placements and see the effect.
Fresh technique 2 - Using a spirit level to be sure the pockets were level Good thing the coat had hung all week so the fabric was as bias stretched as it was going to get.
Fresh technique 3 - I said to myself, not having done such an exact garment using only photos, "Self, we need measurements, but using proportions and ratios thereof, we can get it decently right.' Hence this full length photo was used. Cumberbatch is 6', so I divided him up and was able to use this to measure and place my pockets and buttons.
You may have noticed my techniques aren't always professional. I'm not.
Buttons - they WERE black, but the ones on the coat are gold edged. I did a post on that a while back. Ugly, Thanks Belfast. I had to paint mine. I used gold acrylic I slapped on and rubbed off. I want a clear coat to make them glossy - that can come later.
Tailor's tacks are just threads you pull out later to mark placements. Also, see my awesome welt pocket. Worked perfectly my second time round doing them. If they gap stupidly again I can A. steam the wool to shrink it (LOVE wool) ot B. use snaps or a hidden sip inside. I lean towards a zip anyway in case I actually want to use the welt pockets for things other then, say, rubbing my boobs. Really, you can tell it's a coat for men. Stupid pocket placement. OK, maybe not my boob. Fiddle with my underwire I suppose.
Patch pockets, lined. I'll be doing a blind stitch on the edges to flatten then a bit more. Still. Not bad, not bad. Need to buy some red silk thread for the button holes. More iron-on interfacing, and perhaps some large snaps - I saw in a promo pic for S2 that there's a snap instead of button holes on the underlapping lapel. Explains why I never saw buttonholes down that side. Interesting.
And next, I have to tackle the collar. A biggish step getting that right. After that, I get to do sleeves and the cuffs, those bloody cuffs.
Getting the positions of the pocket just right took forever. Not trusting tailor's chalk (rubs off the wool too fast) I used a new thing and put in tailor's tacks to mark the positions. Worked like a dream.
Fresh technique 1 - little paper patches of buttons and pockets to get the placements and see the effect.
Fresh technique 2 - Using a spirit level to be sure the pockets were level Good thing the coat had hung all week so the fabric was as bias stretched as it was going to get.
Fresh technique 3 - I said to myself, not having done such an exact garment using only photos, "Self, we need measurements, but using proportions and ratios thereof, we can get it decently right.' Hence this full length photo was used. Cumberbatch is 6', so I divided him up and was able to use this to measure and place my pockets and buttons.
You may have noticed my techniques aren't always professional. I'm not.
Buttons - they WERE black, but the ones on the coat are gold edged. I did a post on that a while back. Ugly, Thanks Belfast. I had to paint mine. I used gold acrylic I slapped on and rubbed off. I want a clear coat to make them glossy - that can come later.
Tailor's tacks are just threads you pull out later to mark placements. Also, see my awesome welt pocket. Worked perfectly my second time round doing them. If they gap stupidly again I can A. steam the wool to shrink it (LOVE wool) ot B. use snaps or a hidden sip inside. I lean towards a zip anyway in case I actually want to use the welt pockets for things other then, say, rubbing my boobs. Really, you can tell it's a coat for men. Stupid pocket placement. OK, maybe not my boob. Fiddle with my underwire I suppose.
Patch pockets, lined. I'll be doing a blind stitch on the edges to flatten then a bit more. Still. Not bad, not bad. Need to buy some red silk thread for the button holes. More iron-on interfacing, and perhaps some large snaps - I saw in a promo pic for S2 that there's a snap instead of button holes on the underlapping lapel. Explains why I never saw buttonholes down that side. Interesting.
And next, I have to tackle the collar. A biggish step getting that right. After that, I get to do sleeves and the cuffs, those bloody cuffs.
![[identity profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/openid.png){kind=small}
no subject
Date: 2012-02-04 02:31 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2012-02-04 04:36 am (UTC)In TGG when he is in Minsk, the coat has the detachable fur collar on. OH.
The black fur and pale skin, jesus.
Am quite happy with the pockets, indeed.
no subject
Date: 2012-02-04 06:49 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2012-02-04 07:16 am (UTC)And they say he never smiles.
I suppose Russia is the only place he would wear it, because he'd look too gay in London with it?
Or people would melt at the sight.
I kind of love fur, politically correct or not.
no subject
Date: 2012-02-04 04:38 pm (UTC)My Dad was a hunter, but didn't like trapping. He said he would never kill anything he didn't intend to eat and real fur in this age where we have alternatives was cruel vanity. Which is ironic as his Mom has a closet full of mink. Having grown up with that kind of flip flop attitude It's one more thing for me to be neurotic about. O.o
no subject
Date: 2012-02-05 01:43 am (UTC)My mother in law has a mink. I love it. Too small for me. But since I live in Japan, no one is going to:
A) Get in a shouting match
B) Throw paint
C) Talk to me about this because I am
A) Foreign
B) Too tall to hassle without
C) Provoking the angry gaijin - bad idea.
I wish I had it now really. Cold winter.
We never really talked about moral issues of fur except the idea was pretty the same in our house as yours.
no subject
Date: 2012-02-05 04:35 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2012-02-04 05:49 pm (UTC)*also how cute ginger BC is*
*drool*
no subject
Date: 2012-02-05 01:44 am (UTC)They must be like falling face first into huge cushiony pillows when you kiss him!
no subject
Date: 2012-02-09 06:17 pm (UTC)anyhoo, the detachable collar would be fabulous and probably authentic in beaver, which is where i was attempting to get with this comment. :D
I'm am SERIOUSLY awed at your amazing kung-fu sewing skills! Seriously! :D
no subject
Date: 2012-02-10 01:50 am (UTC)Beaver sounds nice though. Are they sheared or do they still have the guard hairs on? Beaver has such a soft underpelt. And vintage - nice!
How lucky to get those in a auction that way!
no subject
Date: 2012-02-10 02:17 pm (UTC)They were auctioning off the contents & house of the old Postmaster here in town. Those suitcases came straight out of the attic and no one opened them. One of them was full of bow-tie clips and patterns and cut-out unassembled bow ties...it seems he did that as a hobby. Had a lot of fun with unpacking them. :D
The few hi-res photos I've seen of the Belstaff with the fur collar add-on it looks plush and soft which is what made me think of beaver. Didn't look like a sherling at all.
Maybe you could find an old beaver stole or coat to repurpose at a thrift shop?
no subject
Date: 2012-02-11 12:18 am (UTC)Bow-ties! Postmaster! that is very cool.
Well there's no rush on the collar, after all. I will look about and see.