A Study in Coats - Part 3
Dec. 7th, 2011 08:31 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
jessamygriffithWell, not that I could ever get my mitts on the coat, though I'd love to.
I had to sketch the general pattern lines from screen shots and promo pics.
Firstly, I could see that the side seams were well along to the back of the garment. The sleeve... I could not tell if it was a single pattern piece but decided for comfort and the right look to go with a two pattern piece sleeve.
The upper back of the garment has darts, and the triangle indicates where the vent would start - I added the piece on the toile later. I ended up adjusting the back sleeve hole, I cut it too deeply and it needed less curve.
A look at how the pleats in the back face, and the cuff. I had planned on adapting the Burda pattern on the right, only to find when I opened the package that I had nothing but instructions in it... Luckily the pattern pieces were drawn on the instruction paper - I just had to draw my own out on the test fabric.
For my test, I used a combination of a cotton blue velvet (Cheap cushion material I suspect) and heavy black cordouroy.
On the left. the front and a sleeve piece. On the right the upper back with the vent added in the centre.
The overlap is fine, the lapels a little big. I used iron-on interfacing to give the fabric some stffness. I can never find nice iron on stuff though, it always pulls away. The blue tape is where the roll line of the lapel goes.
Test with sleeve and collar. the collar was okay-ish. Lapel not cut down yet. The sleeve ended up being scrapped - I drafted it from a suit jacket and I couldn't lift my arm to hail a taxi to save my life. TOO TIGHT. The skirt - needs more width to hang and get deeper pleats. The upper back - what a fucking mess, I had to majorly redo. That's where the new armscythe came in.
Next - Progress of a sort, and cutting the wool.
I had to sketch the general pattern lines from screen shots and promo pics.
Firstly, I could see that the side seams were well along to the back of the garment. The sleeve... I could not tell if it was a single pattern piece but decided for comfort and the right look to go with a two pattern piece sleeve.
The upper back of the garment has darts, and the triangle indicates where the vent would start - I added the piece on the toile later. I ended up adjusting the back sleeve hole, I cut it too deeply and it needed less curve.
A look at how the pleats in the back face, and the cuff. I had planned on adapting the Burda pattern on the right, only to find when I opened the package that I had nothing but instructions in it... Luckily the pattern pieces were drawn on the instruction paper - I just had to draw my own out on the test fabric.
For my test, I used a combination of a cotton blue velvet (Cheap cushion material I suspect) and heavy black cordouroy.
On the left. the front and a sleeve piece. On the right the upper back with the vent added in the centre.
The overlap is fine, the lapels a little big. I used iron-on interfacing to give the fabric some stffness. I can never find nice iron on stuff though, it always pulls away. The blue tape is where the roll line of the lapel goes.
Test with sleeve and collar. the collar was okay-ish. Lapel not cut down yet. The sleeve ended up being scrapped - I drafted it from a suit jacket and I couldn't lift my arm to hail a taxi to save my life. TOO TIGHT. The skirt - needs more width to hang and get deeper pleats. The upper back - what a fucking mess, I had to majorly redo. That's where the new armscythe came in.
Next - Progress of a sort, and cutting the wool.
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Date: 2011-12-08 06:21 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2011-12-08 01:58 pm (UTC)Everything else? I can deal.
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Date: 2011-12-08 03:30 pm (UTC)You'll note that when Sherlock lifts his arm the whole side of the coat rises with it. I think Benny has skinny arms and the coat shoulder/sleeves are loose.
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Date: 2011-12-08 10:39 pm (UTC)I couldn't raise my arms at all first go. Argh. Good shape, not loose enough.
Don't like Butterick. Vogue is much better.