The Coat - Pleats
Jan. 27th, 2012 10:24 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
jessamygriffithGot the easy bits of the outer shell done. The vent in the centre back could be a bit higher, but am NOT going to muck up the wool and tear out the stay-stitch triangle at the top just for the extra inch.
On the other hand, the tailor-book method of steaming and hammering the wool for crisp edges worked amazingly well on the back belt. God, it was great, sewed the edge top stitch like a dream. I have learned, it is good.
And how about those pleats in the back-skirt? Not ironed yet, but hey. I hung the coat on the dummy for a day so the bias stretch in the side seams would drop, to avoid puckers and stretching when sewing. (I knew that from before, not the tailor book.)
You will also note that the horrid wrinkles I got in the back from the darts when I made the test coat of cotton velvet do NOT happen with wool. Wool is lovely. It forgives, it stretches.
If the fiber didn't grow on a plant, get pulled from an animal, or get shat out the backside of a worm, just say no.
On the other hand, the tailor-book method of steaming and hammering the wool for crisp edges worked amazingly well on the back belt. God, it was great, sewed the edge top stitch like a dream. I have learned, it is good.
And how about those pleats in the back-skirt? Not ironed yet, but hey. I hung the coat on the dummy for a day so the bias stretch in the side seams would drop, to avoid puckers and stretching when sewing. (I knew that from before, not the tailor book.)
You will also note that the horrid wrinkles I got in the back from the darts when I made the test coat of cotton velvet do NOT happen with wool. Wool is lovely. It forgives, it stretches.
If the fiber didn't grow on a plant, get pulled from an animal, or get shat out the backside of a worm, just say no.
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no subject
Date: 2012-01-29 09:31 pm (UTC)Three words for the best 5,000¥ I ever spent.
Buttonhole machine attachment.
Extra piece, I screw it in, select the cam, drop the foot, take my hands away and press go.
no subject
Date: 2012-01-29 10:16 pm (UTC)If I ever decide to make another cotehardie or the like I'll look into the attachment. :-)
no subject
Date: 2012-01-29 10:41 pm (UTC)Cotes are only one of the reasons I got the attachment. If only I could find a cam for eyelets... That, and the attachment doesn't have a cam for extra big buttons. Le shrug.